August guide to Lisbon for non-beachgoers

There's an August Lisbon that doesn't fit on a beach towel. It's the Lisbon of those who stay – because work won't allow it, because the house is too cool to leave, or simply because they prefer the city when it breathes more slowly. The trams run empty, the queues shrink, and there's something generous about the warm evenings that linger after dinner. This is a guide to that Lisbon – the one discovered without sand under your fingernails.

Open-air cinema nights

There's a summer tradition the city has been perfecting: watching movies under the open sky, with a blanket on your knees and warm popcorn. This year, Cine Society is taking over iconic rooftops and gardens – from Beato Riverside to the Carmo terrace, from Príncipe Real to Cascais – with a programme spanning decades, from 1940s classics to recent releases. The session always begins at 7 pm, when the light hasn't completely faded, and the screening starts when it finally gives in.

You don't need to go to the beach to feel the evening breeze. Just pick a rooftop.

Until October 12, various locations between Lisbon and Cascais.

Unhurried jazz at Arco do Cego

Every Friday in July and August, Jardim do Arco do Cego transforms into a discreet meeting point for those who enjoy music that doesn't demand immediate applause. It's jazz – from the most classic to the most experimental – outdoors, among trees and garden benches, without a ticket, without rush. A glass of wine, a blanket spread on the grass, and the night takes care of the rest.

The sun setting over the walls

Few places in Lisbon offer a stage as dramatic as São Jorge Castle at dusk. The "Pôr do Sol no Castelo" (Sunset at the Castle) programme returns to fill five summer Saturdays with DJ sets and concerts, always with the entire city – rooftops, river, bridge – stretching out below like a map. You don't need to know where you're going next. This moment arrives, and it's enough.

Fairs, crafts and the pleasant buzz of the street

If the beach is about the silence of the water, Festa na Praça (Festival in the Square) is about the pleasant buzz – of conversations, of local craft stalls, of popular music and street food that smells of all of Portugal. This year, the initiative visits Lisbon and seven other locations, with an area designed for those travelling with pets. It's an opportunity to buy directly from the makers – ceramics, basketry, soaps, small jewellery – and to remember that craftsmanship is also a form of celebration.

Until September 12, various locations, including Lisbon.